
Bikepacking the Jagungal Wilderness | 70km Kosciuszko Gravel Bike Loop
There’s a special kind of excitement that comes with heading into the backcountry for a couple of days. I’d been searching for a good route to introduce Pat to the world of bikepacking. It was also his first time filming from the saddle, so we expected a slower pace while we found our groove.
We kicked off our journey at the Happy Jacks Road trailhead, loaded with food for two days. The trip began with a long, satisfying downhill, a great way to ease into the ride.
Happy Jacks Pondage, located at the confluence of the Tumut River and Happy Jacks Creek, was constructed as part of the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme. Beneath the dam lies a horizontal tunnel connecting the Tumut catchment to Lake Eucumbene. This feat of engineering diverts water from its eastern flow westward for irrigation. Interestingly, at this point the tunnel was excavated from both directions via a vertical access shaft, a testament to the ingenuity behind the project.
Climbing out of the valley, we emerged onto open plains above Happy Jacks Creek before turning onto the Grey Mare Fire Trail. The terrain became a patchwork of gravel, grass, and loose, steep dirt, a real mix that kept us on our toes.
We made camp at Mackay’s Hut for the night. Originally built to support cattle grazing leases, the hut is known for its notoriously smoky fireplace. I'd heard that NPWS had recently improved it and I'm happy to report that it now draws beautifully. We had a warm, cozy night under the stars.
The second day saw us back on the Grey Mare Fire Trail, heading toward O’Keefe’s Hut. This section included a few “hike-a-bike” moments through steep, loose sections, but the scenery made it all worthwhile.
We skirted the base of Mount Jagungal and eventually crossed the very top of the Tumut River, its alpine source. As someone who lives downstream in the town of Tumut, visiting the river’s headwaters feels like a sacred pilgrimage. There's something deeply meaningful about tracing water back to where it all begins.
Joining the Round Mountain Fire Trail brought a noticeable change in riding conditions. Though still gravel, this trail is more frequently trafficked and offered a much smoother ride. We paused at Derschkos Hut for a relaxed lunch break, refuelling for the ride out.
From there, the ride to Round Mountain Trailhead offered one last highlight: the view back toward Mount Jagungal. Make sure to stop and turn around here, the expansive view captures much of the route we’d covered. The final 5km was tarmac back to the car, a smooth finish to our 70km journey through the Snowies.
Written by Chris Russell
Filmed and edited by Pat Ryan